1. Coastline — ONP's coastal strip is a rugged, often fog-enshrouded stretch of sandy beach and a small area of adjacent forest. There are thick groves of trees that march right up to the sand, which results in chunks of timber from fallen trees that litter the beach. Interestingly, the small coastal portion of ONP isn't even connected to the much larger, main portion of the park. President Franklin Delano Roosevelt had intended for them to be connected via a continuous strip of park land, but political forces decided otherwise.
2. Glaciated mountains — Within the center of ONP rise a series of mountains whose sides and ridgelines are topped with massive, ancient glaciers.
3. Temperate rainforest — The western side of ONP sports a temperate rain forest, the wettest place in the coterminous United States (the island of Kauai in the state of Hawaii gets more). Because this is a temperate rainforest, as opposed to a tropical one like the Amazon Rainforest in South America, it isn't dominated by tropical ferns, but rather contains dense timber, including spruce and fir, and mosses that coat the bark of these trees and even drip down from their branches in green, moist tendrils.

Table of contents 1 Natural History
2 Human History
3 Recreation

Natural History

Because ONP sits on an isolated peninsula, with a high mountain range dividing it from the land to the south, it developed many unique plant and animal species (like the Olympic marmot and Roosevelt elk) that can't be found anywhere else in the world. Because of this uniqueness, scientists have declared it to be a Biological Reserve, and study its unique species to better understand how plants and animals evolve. A good book about the natural history of the region is Olympic National Park: A Natural History Guide by Tim McNulty.

Human History

Prior to the influx of European settlers, ONP's human population consisted of Native Americans, whose use of the peninsula consisted mainly of fishing and hunting. When settlers began to appear, the use of the peninsula (as with much of the Pacific Northwest) shifted toward harvesting of timber, which began heavily in the late 1800s and early 1900s. There wasn't much dissent against the logging until the 1920s, when people got their first glimpses of the clear-cut hillsides where trees had been logged. (The 1920s saw an explosion of people's interest in the outdoors; this occurred because the automobile allowed people to tour previously-remote places like the Olympic Peninsula.) Public desire for preservation of some of the area grew until President Roosevelt declared ONP a national park in 1938. Even after ONP was declared a park, though, illegal logging continued in the park, and political battles continue to this day (including President George W. Bush's declaration that logging restrictions must be eased) over the incredibly valuable timber contained within its boundaries. A good book detailing the history of the fight for ONP's timber is Olympic Battleground: The Power Politics of Timber Preservation by Carsten Lien.

Recreation

There are several roads in the park, but none penetrate far into the interior. The park features a network of hiking trails, although the size and remoteness means that it will usually take more than a weekend to get to the high country in the interior. The sights of the rain forest, with plants run riot and dozens of hues of green, are well worth the certainty of heavy rain sometime during the trip.

A nearly unique feature of ONP is the opportunity for backpacking along the beach. The length of the coastline in the park is sufficient for multi-day trips, with the entire day spent walking along the beach. Although idyllic compared to toiling up a mountainside, one must be aware of the tide; at the narrowest parts of the beaches, high tide washes up to the cliffs behind, blocking passage. There are also several promontories that must be struggled over, using a combination of muddy steep trail and fixed ropes.

The trail is currently protected along more than 99 percent of its course by federal or state ownership of the land or by rights-of-way. Annually, more than 4,000 volunteers contribute over 175,000 hours of effort on the Appalachian Trail, possibly the largest volunteer effort on Earth, coordinated in most part by the Appalachian Trail Conference organization.

In the course of its journey, the trail crosses the tops of several of the Appalachian Mountains, running, with only a few exceptions, almost continuously through the wilderness.

Trail hikers who complete the entire trail in a single season are termed "through-hikers" (commonly spelled "thru-hikers"). Completion of the trail generally requires five to seven months, although some unusual individuals have done it in shorter periods. Because of the trail's rugged terrain and cold weather conditions during the spring and fall, through-hiking is a fairly demanding experience. In addition, Baxter State Park, in which the Maine terminus of the trail is located, closes from October 15 to May 15 each year. Only about 20% of those who make the attempt actually succeed in completing the entire trail.

Some hikers and naturalists believe that the emphasis on hiking the entire length of the trail is misplaced. Nearly all of the trail is open to local use, although there are some rules and regulations that favor "through-hikers."

History of the Appalachian Trail

The trail was originally conceived by Benton MacKaye, a forester who wrote his original plan shortly after the death of his wife in 1921. MacKaye's utopian idea detailed a grand trail that would connect a series of farms and wilderness work/study camps for city-dwellers.

In 1923, the first section of the trail was opened by groups of enthusiastic volunteers. To maintain forward momentum, MacKaye called for a two-day Appalachian Trail conference to be held in March of 1925 in Washington, D.C. Although this conference resulted in the formation of the Appalachian Trail Conference organization, little progress was made on the trail for several years.

At the end of the 1920s and beginning of the 1930s, a retired judge named Arthur Perkins and his younger associate Myron H. Avery took up the cause. Avery, who soon took over the ATC, adopted the more practical goal of building a simple hiking trail. He and MacKaye clashed over the ATC's response to a major commercial development along the trail's path (Avery was willing to simply reroute the trail), and MacKaye left the organization.

In August of 1937, the trail was completed to Sugarloaf Mountain in Maine. The ATC shifted its focus toward protecting the trail lands and mapping the trail for hikers. From 1938 to the end of World War II, the trail suffered a series of natural and man-made setbacks. It is said that a group of Boy Scouts from the New York metropolitan area, with exceptional support such as trucked-in supplies, covered the whole trail (at least among them) some time in this period. It may not be clear whether any individual covered the whole route, nor whether contemporaneous records exist, and it appears any surviving participants are not pursuing credit. At the end of the war, the damage to the trail was repaired, and the first documented through-hike, by Earl Shaffer of York, Pa, brought a great deal of attention to the project.

In the 1960s, the ATC made real progress toward protecting the trail from development thanks to a number of sympathetic politicians and officials. The "National Trails System Act" of 1968, paved the way for a series of "national scenic trails" within the national park and national forest systems. Trail volunteers worked with the National Park Service to map a permanent route for the trail, and by 1971 a permanent route had been marked (though minor changes continue to this day). By the close of the 20th century, the Parks Service had completed the purchase of all but a few miles of the trail's span. Completion of all purchases is currently scheduled to occur in 2004.

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